Skirts & Pom-Pom Clogs:

Meet Greece’s Most Iconic Soldiers

If you've visited Athens, odds are you've seen the legendary Evzones, the elite presidential guards standing stoically outside the Parliament building at Syntagma Square.  These aren't your average soldiers.  With their pom-pom shoes, embroidered skirts, and intricately decorated vests, the Evzones embody a deep sense of history, culture, and symbolism that remain a mystery to most. 

The Women’s International Club in Athens recently invited me to join their private tour of the workshops where the uniforms are made, and what really stuck out to me was the artistry and symbolism of their clothes. From the traditional shoe workshop where pom-poms were cut and shoes were meticulously mended, to the upstairs room where women were crafting and sewing uniforms by hand, I now have a deeper appreciation for the artistry and craftsmanship that goes into creating these legendary garments.

Keep reading to discover how to see the Evzones in person, including a secret ceremony known by locals.  Learn what makes their uniform so iconic and the unique requirements to become one of these elite guards—including the fact that you must be over six feet tall!

Who Are the Evzones?

The Evzones (pronounced Ev-ZO-ness) trace their origins to the fearless fighters of the Greek War of Independence in the 1820s.  These warriors were known for their bravery, discipline, and flamboyant uniforms—a combination of practicality and pride that helped them stand out in battle.  Today, the Evzones are part of an elite unit tasked with ceremonial duties, including guarding the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier and representing Greece in official events at home and abroad.

Becoming an Evzone is no easy feat.  Candidates must be Greek, at least 6 feet tall, and possess impeccable physical fitness.  But it’s not just about looking the part; Evzones endure rigorous training to perfect the slow-motion, high-kicks and statuesque stillness required for their role. After all, they must stand entirely motionless for up to six hours a day in Athens’ summer heat.

The Uniform: A Work of Art and Tradition

The Evzones’ uniforms are a storytelling masterpiece.  Each piece is steeped in history and symbolism, handcrafted by special artisans who dedicate countless hours to their creation.  Here’s a breakdown of the iconic ensemble:

1. The Foustanella (Skirt)

The most eye-catching element of the uniform, the foustanella, features 400 pleats—one for each year of Ottoman occupation.  Handmade from white fabric, the skirt is starched to perfection for that bell-like silhouette. Historically, this design allowed freedom of movement for guerilla fighters, making it functional and iconic.

2. The Farion (Cap)

The red cap with the long black tassel nods to Greece’s Byzantine heritage.  The tassel isn’t just decorative; it symbolizes mourning for Greece’s lost soldiers and it’s the crown jewel of the uniform.

3. The Ypodetes (Shirt)

The crisp white cotton shirt, with its voluminous sleeves, is another nod to practicality and flair. These billowy sleeves were perfect for concealing small weapons during wartime. 

4. The Fermeli (Vest)

The dark blue or black embroidered vest is a masterpiece of craftsmanship.  Made of thick wool and adorned with intricate hand-stitched designs, each one takes 6 months to complete.  The embroidery often depicts historical and religious symbols such as crosses, eagles, and motifs from Greek mythology, further connecting the uniform to the nation's cultural and spiritual heritage.

5. The Tsarouchia (Shoes)

Perhaps the most memorable part of the uniform is the tsarouchia—the clunky leather clogs with oversized pom-poms.  These shoes aren’t just quirky; they’re also a throwback to the guerrilla fighters who used them to stomp their way through rugged terrain.  Back in the day, knives would be conceiled inside the pom-pom and they would offer a deadly kick. Weighing nearly three pounds each, the tsarouchia feature 60 nails hammered into the sole for extra grip on slippery terrain and a rhythmic click during the Evzones’ synchronized movements.

6. The Stockings and Gaiters

Finally, the long white stockings and black gaiters complete the look.  These components provide both warmth and protection, just as they did for the fighters who braved Greece’s mountainous environment.

The Rituals and Precision

Watching the Evzones in action is like witnessing a perfectly choreographed ballet.  Every step, swing, and stomp in their changing-of-the-guard ceremony is filled with symbolism.  For instance, the high kicks and deliberate foot stomps are said to awaken the spirits of fallen heroes, while the slow, measured pace reflects discipline and respect.

Each Evzone stands perfectly still for up to five hours a day—a skill that requires both physical endurance and mental focus.  This discipline is so revered that even the smallest deviation, like a blink or twitch, can call for immediate correction.

WHERE and WHEN to see the Evzones in Athens

Daily: 

• To see the Greek Evzones in person, head to Syntagma Square in central Athens, where they stand guard around the clock at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier in front of the Hellenic Parliament building.  The ceremonial changing of the guard occurs every hour, 24/7, offering visitors a chance to see their intricate, synchronized movements and striking uniforms up close.  

On Sundays (SECRET LOCAL’S TIPS):

• For a truly unforgettable experience that only locals really know about, plan to see them on a Sunday. At 11:00 AM, when the grand changing of the guard takes place, there is more fanfare including a full marching band and the entire unit in ceremonial dress.  

• MOREOVER, another secret is to meet them on the acropolis on SUNDAY where they will raise and lower the Greek flag at sunrise and sunset.  To find the location, when you are up on the Acropolis hill, look for the raised area with a flagpole where the Greek flag flies.

Arrive 15-20 minutes early for the best view and expect the ceremonies to happen on time and fairly quickly.  Don't forget your camera and remember not to touch the guards or interfere with their duties.

Next time you find yourself in Athens, take a moment to truly appreciate these guardians.  Watch their every movement, admire the artistry of their uniforms, and soak in the history they represent.  The Evzones are a powerful reminder of the beauty and strength of tradition.

Have you seen the Evzones in action? Share your experience in the comments below, and let me know what part of their story inspires you most!